Day 16 V-Bezel Making

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If you are making jewelry long enough, eventually you are going to come across a project with a stone with a sharp corner, either a marquise, pear, or square shaped stone. Today I will demonstrate how I go about making a v-bezel for setting stones.
First, I find either a scrap piece of sheet silver or cut a piece off of some stock. I roll it down in my Rolling Mill to about 0.5mm and then anneal it. If you are unfamiliar with annealing, see Day 9 of this blog.

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I then file a flat edge on one side of the silver and scribe a line approx 2.5mm away from the edge. (longer or shorter if you want longer or shorter bezels.) Once you have a line scribed, use a Square Graver or a Flat Graver at a 45 degree angle to cut a grove into the silver about 2/3 the way through the sheet. After the groove is cut, I run a Square Escapement File along the groove to make it uniform and straight.

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Hold the silver sheet with a pair of Smooth Jaw Parallel Pliers with the grove even with the edge of the pliers and use a Square Prong Pusher to fold the sheet to a 45 degree (or square) angle. I also tap the silver with my Rawhide Mallet or a Plastic Head Jewelers Hammer to make sure it is seated against the other side.

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Next I fluxed the solder joint with Handy Flux and add 3 pieces of small solder, spaced evenly, to the inside of the bezel. Do not use too much solder, you can always add more, but it is a pain if there is too much. I solder from the back side of the bezel with my Smith Mini Torch, to make sure the solder penetrates the solder joint.

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Now measure the finished side and scribe a line along the other side the same width, and cut with your Jeweler Saw Frame. (I use a 3/0 Saw Blade) Again, you can trim the sides either longer or shorter, and use thicker or thinner silver, depending on the application you are using.

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Now trim off the amount you want and solder to your stone seat or pad. Set stones and enjoy!
Have a wonderful day!

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0 Responses to Day 16 V-Bezel Making

  1. Laura Fowler June 16, 2014 at 1:08 pm #

    Could you please add a photo of a finished example of how you use the V bezel?

    • jewelrymonk June 16, 2014 at 1:10 pm #

      Laura, stay tuned, I will make a stone setting and set a stone in the coming days. #teaser #edgeofyourseat

  2. Angela Croutze June 16, 2014 at 4:33 pm #

    Thanks Doug. I too would like to see the finished product.
    I have been thoroughly enjoying this series.
    Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. There is so much to learn!!

  3. Donna June 17, 2014 at 12:06 pm #

    As a newbie, I am a bit confused how this is used for a “square corner” I guess I thought it was for “pointed corners” where the bezel sometimes has too much of a flap as you are setting it & rolling it over the stone?
    So when you show the bend this way, I cant wrap my head around it where the points come in?
    Sorry if I’m being completely blind to the obvious. A finished piece would definitely help. Thanks you for doing these! I enjoy them

  4. jewelrymonk June 17, 2014 at 1:08 pm #

    Check out today’s (Day 17) Blog, it might clear things up a bit.