Day 17 V-Bezel Pendant

Bezel Header

Ok, ok, After yesterdays V-Bezel illustration, I had quite a few questions and comments about how I would use the bezels and a good application for V-Bezels. Well, you ask, you get.

Over the next 2-3 days I will make a pendant and set a stone using the now “semi-famous” V-Bezel. I found a stone that I have had in my drawer for a while looking for a use for it, well now I have found a purpose for it, so let’s get going.

First, I find a piece of flat silver for the pendant base. In this instance, I use a piece that is 1.25mm thick. I place the stone I am using top down on the silver, (I slightly dull the surface of the silver with a piece of used 1200 grit sandpaper so it will show the tracing better) and hold it in place with a small piece of sticky wax, something that will hold it firm. Once the stone is held down, I use a scribe to trace a light line around the stone. I pull the stone off of the silver and use my Saw Frame with a Saw Blade to cut along the outside of the line. I hold the silver with a pair of Smooth Jawed Parallel Pliers. I file the outside up to the scribed line.

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Once I have the base cut out, I scribe a line inside approx 1.5 mm thick, I drill a hole in the center of the base and load it on my Saw Frame. I cut along the inside up to the line, as close as possible. I use a Barrette Needle File and a Half-Round Escapement File to clean the inside and make it smooth and crisp.

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Now I have the base cleaned up, I roll a piece of silver approx 4mm wide and 0.8mm thick with my Rolling Mill to use as a bezel for the back of the stone. After I roll it to the desired thickness, I anneal it and form it to match the shape of the back of the setting. (If you are unfamiliar with the annealing process, see Day 9’s blog entry) I now solder the bezel to the back of the base that I made. You can see I place the solder in between the bezel and the frame on my Soldering Block. I solder using my Smith Mini Torch with a fairly small flame from the #5 torch tip. (I have drilled out my tip, so it is a little larger than a #5, but a #5 is a good tip) I am using Oxygen (approx 30 psi) and Propane (approx 10 psi) as gas for my torch. (to see how I set up my torch and to safely check for leaks, See Blog Post Day 5)

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Next, I take the V-Bezel that I made in Day 16’s Blog entry and saw off about 4.5mm of it to use as a bezel setting for the point of the stone. I solder it to the point of the setting base while holding it with my Soldering Spring Tweezers with heat protective handles.

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Can you see it starting to take shape yet? A little more massaging and it will come alive….. I found a bail that I have been itchin’ to use as well, seems like the perfect project for it.

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Stay Tuned and I will finish cleaning it up and set the stone in the next days.

Now go make Something Beautiful!


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6 Responses to Day 17 V-Bezel Pendant

  1. Annukka Puotiniemi June 17, 2014 at 1:19 pm #

    This is great, thank you! I must try this soon.

  2. July 12, 2014 at 5:29 pm #

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    • July 12, 2014 at 6:14 pm #

      Thank you so much.

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  4. Cheryl Seung October 24, 2015 at 7:43 am #

    Hi Doug,

    What would be the best method to make a bezel setting for a faceted stone?

    I’m thinking of cutting a bezel strip from sheet, forming into a pear shape, and then cutting another bezel strip to make a seat to fit inside. Is there another way that might work better?


    • Doug Napier October 26, 2015 at 4:50 pm #

      The way you described is probably the most common way of going about it. Another way would be make a wire the same shape as the stone and solder it into place, down far enough to make a seat for the stone. It doesn’t have to go all the way to the base of the setting. Even 3-4 beads or balls soldered into the inside of the bezel wall would work. Drill a little “divot” to hold the bead before soldering. All you are looking for is just a little support to hold the stone in place.
      You could also start with a thicker bezel and trim away enough of the bezel so the stone would drop into place and use the existing bezel to set the stone.

      Hope this helps.