Day 58 Building a Fancy Rectangle Stone Bezel

Over the past few days, I have been putting together a bunch of pieces and parts and I bet you are wondering “What in the world is that JewelryMonk doing?” Well today I am going to try to get a little closer and by the end of this post, you might be a little closer to figuring out where I am taking you on this journey.

Rectangle Setting Header

The ring shank I am going to be using is a size 10, so I will scribe a mark on the underside of the bezel I have built at a size 10. I now file using a #2 Hand Ring File to take most of the bulk off and a #4 Hand Ring File to get close to the scribed line.

Rectangle Setting (1)

Rectangle Setting (2) Rectangle Setting (3)

Next I am going to use the “square-holed grid I built yesterday. I want the grid pattern to be at a 45 degree angle, so I place it on my Stepped Ring Mandrel and tap it with a Small Plastic Tipped Hammer to get it into shape. I will sand the surface with 600 Grit Sandpaper so I can lightly scribe a line on the grid and better see the mark. I cut the grid with my Saw Frame, using a 3/0 Saw Blade.

Rectangle Setting (4) Rectangle Setting (5)

Rectangle Setting (6) Rectangle Setting (7)

Rectangle Setting (8) Rectangle Setting (9)

Now I take the stone base I built a few days ago and place it inside the rectangle bezel I built at the same time. The base fits firmly inside, so I place the stone in place so I can mark the height I want the stone to sit at. I can now solder the base into place.

Rectangle Setting (10) Rectangle Setting (11)

Rectangle Setting (13) Rectangle Setting (14)

Once soldered, I mark the inside of the base with my Dividers at about 1.25mm because I want to cut away the majority of the base, only using the outside rim of the base. I drill holes on the inside of each corner and place the saw blade into the hole so I can cut along the inside of the scribed line. I clean up the cuts with a #4 Barrette Needle File and a #6 Square Needle File.

Rectangle Setting (15) Rectangle Setting (16)

Rectangle Setting (17) Rectangle Setting (18)

Last I prepare to solder the grid shaped plate to the underside of the bezel. I take extra care to slowly trim the edges of the grid and line this up so it fits snuggly into the bezel. Once it fits inside, I solder just one contact point. After one contact point is soldered, it holds the plate into place and I can adjust the rest of the contact points, and I solder them. Be careful not to use too much solder. I must mention again that solder follows heat, so you want to direct the flame (not too hot) at the thicker part of the piece, which is the bezel. If you try and heat the solder, it will flow into the grid pattern and you will have extra cleanup.

Rectangle Setting (19) Rectangle Setting (20)

Now you can get an idea of what I am putting together. Come on back tomorrow and we will see if we can finish this piece.

Rectangle Setting (21) Rectangle Setting (22)

Again, thanks for stopping by, and if you find value in this content, or if you like to keep up to date on the eBook, tutorials, podcast, and video lessons coming soon, make sure to Subscribe to this Blog Via Email (link in the upper right corner at www.JewelryMonk.com)

Now, go dazzle someone with your awesome talent!

Doug

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4 Responses to Day 58 Building a Fancy Rectangle Stone Bezel

  1. Naomi July 30, 2014 at 3:35 pm #

    How did you mark the line on the bezel to file the curve on the bottom? I mean – how did you get the curve? Or where from? Does it make sense?

    • JewelryMonk July 30, 2014 at 3:44 pm #

      Naomi, I have a couple of “discs” pre-made at different sizes that I can use, but you can also use a divider measured at a radius, then hold the piece up against your bench pin and mark it that way, if that makes sense.

      • Naomi July 31, 2014 at 8:11 am #

        That makes sense. Thank you.