How to Make Oval Bezel Earrings

How to Make Oval Bezel Earrings


Here is a fun little project that you can make in a short time. There are times when I design and plan in advance what I am going to make, and there are other times when I look around and see what is in sight and create as I go, this is one of those instances.

Oval Bezel Making Header

I scrounged up a couple of pieces of silver sheet, some Red Coral Oval Cabochon stones, and earring posts. Over the next couple of blog posts, I will turn these pieces and parts into a pair of oval cabochon earrings. We have covered some of these processes in past tutorials, but we will again look at some of these techniques.

Oval Bezel Making (1)

I am going to start with a silver sheet approx 0.5mm thick to use as the base. I am using a small piece of soft wax (Red Sprue Wax) to hold the stone in place onto the silver sheet so I can scribe a line around the stone. I am careful not to move the stone as I trace around the stone with a sharp tool.

Oval Bezel Making (2) Oval Bezel Making (3)

Oval Bezel Making (4) Oval Bezel Making (5)

Oval Bezel Making (6)

Next I will cut the shapes out of the silver. A little trick to help your cutting go easier is to lubricate the saw blade. Here I am using just a little Pro-Cut Lubricant on my finger to rub a little lubricant on the teeth of the saw blade. I am using a 4″ Saw Frame and a 3/0 Saw Blade to cut this piece. I follow the scribed line and am careful to cut just on the outside of the line.

Oval Bezel Making (7) Oval Bezel Making (8)

Oval Bezel Making (9) Oval Bezel Making (10)

Oval Bezel Making (11)

Once I have the stone bases cut out, I use a pair of Half Round/Flat Pliers to shape the bezels into shape. I trim the bezels a little longer than I need so I can file and fit them before assembly. I will do the final fitting and soldering on the next blog post.

Oval Bezel Making (12) Oval Bezel Making (13)

Stop by next time and I will solder the parts together and set the stones.

As always, Thank you for stopping by and helping to make the JewelryMonk community a special place. Feel free to browse some of the other tips, I have been doing this for a while now and there are over 100 posts by now. Feel free to share the site with your friends and be sure to sign up to get the posts delivered to you via email.

Now go scrounge up some pieces and make something awesome!


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4 Responses to How to Make Oval Bezel Earrings

  1. Dharlee November 3, 2014 at 11:17 pm #

    Hi Doug,

    What gauge are you using for the bezel? Thanks!

  2. JewelryMonk November 4, 2014 at 6:06 am #

    Dharlee, it is approx 26 gauge sterling for the bezel.

  3. Caroline November 4, 2014 at 1:51 pm #

    Hi Doug
    Thanks for the very informative and detailed blog post. I look forward to seeing part 2!
    I have always made the bezel first and soldered it to the base before cutting to size, so this is interesting to see another way of doing this.
    Many thanks

    • JewelryMonk November 4, 2014 at 5:31 pm #

      Caroline, I have done it both ways but I prefer to do it this way at times. After clean up and polishing there is less of a chance of solder lines and pits in the solder seam. If they do show up, it is on the back side.