Archive | Soldering

Gypsy Setting or Flush Setting Tutorial

Part 2 of the Tapered Rectangle Earring Tutorial

Let’s finish this earring project we started yesterday. When I left off, we created the design and cut the pilot hole for the stones we are going to Gypsy Set or Flush Set into the flat earrings, so let’s dive it:


These are the tools I am using to cut the seats and set the stones:  a 0.9mm Twist Drill Bit to drill the pilot hole, a 1.3mm Twist Drill Bit (65% of the stone size) a 1.8mm Bud Bur, and a 2.0mm Hart Setting Bur. All these tools are available at JewelryMonk.com/tools at a discounted price. Also a burnishing tool I will show you how to prepare later.

First I drilled the earrings with the 0.9mm Twist Drill Bit as a pilot hole, then finished it off with a 1.3mm Twist Drill Bit, which is 65% of the total stone size. I like to have my “Through Hole” for settings between 60%-70% of the stone size. After the hole is drilled, I prepare the setting with a 1.8mm Bud Bur, which is about 90% of the total stone width. This helps the stone to seat better. Some stones are cut with a thicker bottom, and this will help with stone variance.

The width or size of the stone is important to know, but also be aware of the thickness of the girdle of the stone, or the side area. This will determine how deep to drill your seat for the stone. This stone has a little thicker girdle, so I have to drill a little deeper than normal. I used a 2.0mm Hart Setting Bur to do this. You want to drill the stone seat so that there is a little metal between the top of the girdle and the top of the piece. You want the table (or top) of the stone to be at the same level as the surface of the metal.

Now that I have the stones ready to set, I will finish assembling the earrings. I mark the back of the pieces where I want the earring post to be attached. I mark them so they are the same from side to side. Just a small make is needed, which will be covered up by the head of the earring post and the solder. Next I clean the piece well and get ready to solder.

After the pieces are clean, I dip them into a mixture of Denatured Alcohol and Boric Acid Powder, this helps to prevent fire scale. I add just a little dot of Handy Flux to the area where the solder will go. I also add just a dot of flux to the head of the earring post and pick up a small piece of Medium Silver Solder (cut from a sheet). You can see not much is needed. Since the earring is thicker and heavier than the earring post, during soldering I focus the majority of the heat from the torch to this area. This prevents melting the post. I solder, then pickle to remove any fire scale and the left over glazed flux.

After getting the pieces out of the pickle, I bench polish the piece to take care of any small scratches or imperfections before setting the stones. I also want to polish the top and refine the beveled edge on this design, and the Hard Felt Wheel works great for this. I use a Knife Edge Hard Felt Wheel on the back, to get close to the post without bending it.

Another added feature I like to do is take my Hart Setting Bur and clean up the hole on the back side of the setting, This looks cleaner and more uniform when it is polished. I usually just put the bur in the hole and turn it with my fingers, (no foredom) It doesn’t take much to clean this out.

To support the earring during setting, I drilled a hole in my bench pin with a 1.0mm Twist Drill for the earring post to fit into. This keeps it from bending and helps to use the back of the earring as support during the setting process.

The burnishing tool I use to set the stone is one I made. I took an old dull ball bur, probably around 1.0mm and cut or broke off the end. I sanded the edge round with a Snap On Sanding Disc and polished it by rubbing it back and forth on a piece of paper loaded with Yellow Rouge. I use a small flat piece of glass or plexiglass under the paper, and rub the rough across the paper to prepare it, then keep rubbing the burnisher until it has a high shine.

FINALLY, it is time to set the stone! I place the polished burnisher at the intersection of the stone and metal and in a circular motion, with the burnisher at about a 10 degree angle, I mold the metal edge slightly over the edge of the stone. You will be surprised how little metal it takes to hold the stone in place.

To see this process, I have attached a Video of this setting process, it is about 7 minutes long, but goes into more detail about the setting process. Click the link below:

After the stone is set, I give it a light polish on my polishing machine, clean it in the ultrasonic, and it is all finished!

I truly hope this helps you to understand this process. Like most things, the more you practice, the more familiar and better you will get. At least you now know the “Mechanics” behind the art of Gypsy/Flush Setting.

Again, the majority of the tools used in this tutorial are available at a discounted price at JewelryMonk.com/tools

And remember, if you are not subscribed HERE, you might miss out on some really cool jewelry stuff.

Thanks for stopping by. Now…… Go Make Something Shiny!

Doug

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I Almost Forgot…. The JewelryMonk Podcast Episode 23

In all the excitement of Launching the Latest Video Training Series, I forgot to mention there is a New Episode of The JewelryMonk Podcast.

I talk about:

TheGivingKeys.com  A Company that is doing a Great Job in Paying it Forward

A Jewelry Tip, Using a Soldering Barrier

The Cool Tool of the Week, JewelryMonk’s Jeweler’s Square

A Story about a Time Traveling Man, who gets arrested in Wyoming

INTRODUCING a New Video Course:

(for a very limited time)

 

Have YOU ever been Overwhelmed by all the seemingly complicated processes that go into jewelry making? How to tackle all the concepts used in the craft? How do you get your design or idea from your mind into jewelry….

There’s Fabricating and Soldering – Casting – Model and Mold Making –  Soldering – Stone Setting – Polishing –  just to name a few…… and The List Goes On.

Have YOU ever wanted to take a design that is in your head and create a piece of jewelry from it, one that is repeatable? How much time could you save if you could reproduce one of your handmade designs, over and over, with the same results every time, without recreating the whole piece from scratch?

Are you like me? Do you learn better by examples, rather that books or magazines?

What if someone could show you a Jewelry Creation Method, A Process, A System, ……Step by Step, ….. Every Detail, Every Concept, and WALK WITH YOU THROUGH IT ALL ALONG THE WAY…..

Would that revolutionize your Jewelry Making Experience? If I could Show you how to make your jewelry ideas a reality? Would it open up new opportunities?  Where do you see your Jewelry Making Skills 1 Month from now….1 Year from now?

This Step by Step Fabricating and Soldering Video Course is Focused on:  EDUCATION, EQUIPPING, and ENCOURAGING


These Soldering and Fabrication Video Lessons consist of:

1 Image Sizing Video

3 Videos on Setting Building

1 Video on Metal Assembly

1 Video on Metal Shaping

2 Videos on Metal Trimming

9 Videos on Soldering Techiques

1 Mold Making and Casting Video

1 Video on Stone Setting and Polishing

and plenty of bonus material…….PLENTY! (17 MORE Videos)


I walk you through every process with 4 camera video perspective

I explain exactly what I am doing, the whole time, and why I am doing it.

And in many cases, show you zoomed in photography of the example, so you completely grasp the concept.

I’ll show you how to master, and understand all these concepts and skills, in your own time.

The bottom line is that we’re going to cover a lot of ground together, and you’re going to come out the other end with a complete understanding of the whole Jewelry Creation Method.

SO, If you’re ready to Take your Jewelry Making Skills to the next level, then your next step is clear click the BUY NOW button above and get registered for the Fabricated Pendant Video Course.

You have a big decision to make. I can’t make it for you… the only thing I can do is tell you that this Fabrication and Soldering Video Course works.

I promise:    It is not always going to be easy, change and growth never is

But I also promise:     The opportunity to change is always worth the effort.

Click the BUY NOW button, and I’ll see you in the program…

…… Get Ready to MAKE the BEST Jewelry of Your LIFE…..TOGETHER

Doug

NEW Soldering and Fabrication Video Course NOW AVAILABLE

INTRODUCING a New Video Course:

(for a very limited time)

 

Have YOU ever been Overwhelmed by all the seemingly complicated processes that go into jewelry making? How to tackle all the concepts used in the craft? How do you get your design or idea from your mind into jewelry….

There’s Fabricating and Soldering – Casting – Model and Mold Making –  Soldering – Stone Setting – Polishing –  just to name a few…… and The List Goes On.

Have YOU ever wanted to take a design that is in your head and create a piece of jewelry from it, one that is repeatable? How much time could you save if you could reproduce one of your handmade designs, over and over, with the same results every time, without recreating the whole piece from scratch?

Are you like me? Do you learn better by examples, rather that books or magazines?

What if someone could show you a Jewelry Creation Method, A Process, A System, ……Step by Step, ….. Every Detail, Every Concept, and WALK WITH YOU THROUGH IT ALL ALONG THE WAY…..

Would that revolutionize your Jewelry Making Experience? If I could Show you how to make your jewelry ideas a reality? Would it open up new opportunities?  Where do you see your Jewelry Making Skills 1 Month from now….1 Year from now?

This Step by Step Fabricating and Soldering Video Course is Focused on:  EDUCATION, EQUIPPING, and ENCOURAGING


These Soldering and Fabrication Video Lessons consist of:

1 Image Sizing Video

3 Videos on Setting Building

1 Video on Metal Assembly

1 Video on Metal Shaping

2 Videos on Metal Trimming

9 Videos on Soldering Techiques

1 Mold Making and Casting Video

1 Video on Stone Setting and Polishing

and plenty of bonus material…….PLENTY! (17 MORE Videos)


I walk you through every process with 4 camera video perspective

I explain exactly what I am doing, the whole time, and why I am doing it.

And in many cases, show you zoomed in photography of the example, so you completely grasp the concept.

I’ll show you how to master, and understand all these concepts and skills, in your own time.

The bottom line is that we’re going to cover a lot of ground together, and you’re going to come out the other end with a complete understanding of the whole Jewelry Creation Method.

SO, If you’re ready to Take your Jewelry Making Skills to the next level, then your next step is clear click the BUY NOW button above and get registered for the Fabricated Pendant Video Course.

You have a big decision to make. I can’t make it for you… the only thing I can do is tell you that this Fabrication and Soldering Video Course works.

I promise:    It is not always going to be easy, change and growth never is

But I also promise:     The opportunity to change is always worth the effort.

Click the BUY NOW button, and I’ll see you in the program…

…… Get Ready to MAKE the BEST Jewelry of Your LIFE…..TOGETHER

Doug

Overcome Fear and Gain Confidence in Soldering (FREE VIDEO)

3rd FREE VIDEO this week:

Overcome Fear and Gain Confidence in Soldering

Let me tell you another quick story:

A man was on vacation, and as he was walking, he saw some the elephants, he suddenly stopped, confused by the fact that these huge creatures were being held by only a small rope tied to their front leg. There were no chains, no cages, just a small rope. It was obvious that the elephants could, at anytime, break away from their bonds but for some reason, they did not……

He saw a trainer nearby and asked why these animals just stood there and made no attempt to get away. “Well,” trainer said, “when they are very young and much smaller we use the same size rope to tie them and, at that age, it’s enough to hold them. As they grow up, they are conditioned to believe they cannot break away. They believe the rope can still hold them, so they never try to break free.”      The man was amazed. These animals could at any time break free from their bonds but because they believed they couldn’t, they were stuck right where they were.

Like the elephants, how many of us go through life hanging onto a belief that we cannot do something, simply because we failed at it once before?  Failure is part of learning; we should never give up the struggle in life.


In this 3rd Video in a Series I have released this week, I will deal with FEAR and CONFIDENCE in our jewelry making.

FEAR and Lack of Confidence doesn’t have to keep you from pursuing your dreams?

The tools are just that….TOOLS, and with a little safety, practice, and a little education….. They can be mastered instead of letting them master your dreams.   If you OWN THE Experience, You Have the Power to Transform, You have the The Mastery of Knowledge!

So in this latest video, I do just that, tackle some of those issues that KEEP US FROM GROWING:

 CLICK HERE FOR FREE VIDEO

 CLICK HERE FOR FREE VIDEO


Since 2014, JewelryMonk.com has been focused on Educating and Encouraging people in all aspects of jewelry making, and I will continue to do so through any and all means I can. Either through this page, the JewelryMonk FaceBook page, The JewelryMonk Podcast, or any other way I can find, my mission is to pass along this jewelry knowledge I have.

So come along this Journey with me and

Together, We Can Make The Best Jewelry Of Your Life!

As Always, Thanks for stopping by, Share this with a Friend, and get out there and Make Something Shiny!

Doug

Tool Modification and Soldering Principles (FREE VIDEO)

MORE FREE VIDEO TEACHINGS…..

But first, a story.

Three years ago, I was laying in a hospital bed, healing from surgery, and wondering about my future, what would it look like, would I even have much of a future? Encouragement was my friend, and I needed plenty of it, but you know what, I was the one who ended up being the “Encourager” to my friends and family. I could see the worry in their faces, but I was there to tell them “I got this, It’s ALL GOOD!” My nature is like that, it is my “default” and I get energy from it.

Fast Forward a few years, I am still like that. I am all healed up, Doctors say 3 years “C”-Free and I am moving forward to a brighter future. I don’t dwell on the past, but I don’t forget the lessons the past has taught me, and I am better for it.

All this to say, I am still am Encourager, and I have focused that energy into my Jewelry Education.

This week I am releasing a few videos that hopefully tries to get across this message of Education and Encouragement, and today is the 2nd in a series of FREE Videos. This FREE video will show how and why I Modify My Tools, and also will give a simple, but important Soldering Principle.

 CLICK HERE FOR FREE VIDEO CLICK HERE FOR FREE VIDEO

Since 2014, JewelryMonk.com has been focused on Educating and Encouraging people in all aspects of jewelry making, and I will continue to do so through any and all means I can. Either through this page, the JewelryMonk FaceBook page, The JewelryMonk Podcast, or any other way I can find, my mission is to pass along this jewelry knowledge I have.

So come along this Journey with me and

Together, We Can Make The Best Jewelry Of Your Life!

As Always, Thanks for stopping by, Share this with a Friend, and get out there and Make Something Shiny!

Doug